Also known as
Machard Knot, French Marchard Knot
What is the Klemheist Knot?
The Klemheist Knot is a hitch often used in climbing. It is one of the most versatile and useful knots in climbing.
The Klemheist Knot, what is it used for?
The Klemheist Knot can be used to ascend or descend a climbing line. It is often used in combination with the secured foot-lock technique. It is even used frequently to ascend a rope in an emergency situation.
You can also use the Klemheist as a backup friction hitch when rappelling down (Abseiling) a climbing line, for example when you have reached the top of your sport climbing route.
History
The Klemheist knot was invented by mountaineer and photographer, Heinz Marius Klemm, in the 1930s.
Remarks
Technically the Klemheist is not a knot, but a friction hitch.
This knot is easy to tie and untie, making it a popular choice among climbers.
Always make sure you test your friction hitch while still standing on the ground, before you start applying it in a real climbing situation.